| Four different variations of this building
have stood on the cliffs overlooking Seal Rocks, at the northwest
corner of San Francisco. Two earlier versions were rather modestly
small in size, especially when compared with the elaborate eight-story
Victorian building, which stood on that spot from 1896 to 1907
as the third Cliff House. But when that ornate building burned
down, the fourth version to be built was designed more like
the first two simple, and made to blend in with the ocean and
cliffs surrounding it. That fourth version is still standing
today. The various Cliff Houses
were mostly used as a dining establishment, dance hall, gift
shop and scenic vista spot. From the windows of the building,
a person could see for miles down the coast. They could also
sit at their table and watch any ships that might be sailing
in or out of the Golden Gate. Regardless of which incarnation
of the building a person was visiting, they always had a spectacular
view.
There were various means of commuting out
to this spot. At first there were horse-drawn carriages, which
for a small fee would take them on the approx. 45-minute trot
from downtown to the ocean. Later, trolley lines were in place
for frequent runs back and forth across the city.
There were several other attractions for
people to visit after making this trip out to the coast. Depending
on the year, people could also walk among the statues in the
elaborate gardens above the Cliff House, on the grounds of
Sutro Heights. There was also a sky tram that carried passengers
between the Cliff House and Point Lobos, along the water’s
edge. For many years, just down the hill from the Cliff House
was a large amusement park called Playland, and directly North
of the Cliff House were the elaborate swimming/ bathing/ sauna
buildings of Sutro Baths.
And of course, people have always loved
just strolling along the beach, breathing in the salty air
and listening to the waves.
Sutro Baths
Along north beach, right before point lobos (the point where
the coast turns in towards the Golden Gate) there is a fancy
restaurant called the Cliff House. The restaurant, located
near scenic cliffs, overlooks the Pacific Ocean (nice for
sunset dinners) as well as a formation of rock outcroppings
in the ocean called Seal Rocks. The outcropping gets its name
because seals use to sun on the rocks around the turn of the
century. Recently the rocks have gone to the birds, with numerous
gulls punching on them during the day. However, the rocks
make impressive edifices sticking out of the ocean.
The Cliff House is all that is left of the pleasure center
that was located at this scenic portion of the Pacific Coast.
In the 1890's a benevolent man named Adolph Sutro, who made
his fortune building a tunnel into the Comstock, moved to
San Francisco and took up residences in what is now known
as Sutro Height. Sutro wanted a resort for San Franciscans
so he bought a run down resort called the Cliff House. But
his vision did not end there, he was fascinated with the sea
creatures that he found in the rocks and crevices to the north
of the Restaurant so he walled off a section of the cove to
create tide pools. For people to view these creatures. He
then went one step further. He saw the therapeutic value of
swimming in salt water so he wanted to build a bath for people
to go in to swim. He wanted to model it after European baths,
but wanted this one to be for the common person. Quickly realizing
that people would not want swim outside (North Beach is known
for both fog and cold wind) he decided to build a tropical
paradise inside a glass building with Victorian arches, palm
trees and even a live band. There were multiple tiered baths
that had cold water brought in at high tide. Sutro, being
an Engineer, also drilled tunnels into the cliffs so people
could watch the waves hit against them, as well as search
for sea creatures. The building has been likened to a Victorian
Palace with Roman baths inside.
Being the only place in town to go (the bridges had not been
built yet) and with Sutro's own transit line, the baths were
a very popular place to go until around the 1940's where they
began a gradual decline. They were finally abandoned to the
elements in the 1950 and in the 1960 they were slated to be
to torn down and housing built. (If the developers had there
way there would be no open space in the entire Bay Area.)
Then a mysterious fire (note this is different from the mysterious
fire that destroyed the Cliff House in 1907) finished off
the baths, burning the building down to the foundation.
You can still go and see what is left of the crowning glory
of Sutro and imagine what the place at one time was life.
On a clear day you have a great view of the pacific and Seal
Rocks.
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